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Elle magazine on BnF Gallica is great for post-war French fashion. Has a lot of free patterns which I might put links to at some point, if I get bored enough. Also exclusive interviews with couturiers! I'll summarize below. (I'll also rewrite this entire section when I'm not totally brain-dead.)

Christian Dior's Advice for Dressing Chic on a Budget

(As recounted in Elle, 14 September 1948.)

A pleated skirt and a sweater, in black or blue, plus a black wool redingote with flared skirt, makes a perfect outfit, suitable to all occassions. This can be varied endlessly through the use of accessories (belts, scarves, collars, jewelry).

Optionally, a girl may invest in a gray flannel suit for sportswear, a black suit of a classical but not too masculine cut, and one or two dresses from a couture house, chosen with discernment, as a good dress does not go out of style quickly. Instead of buying couture, one can also order from a tailor/seamstress (or sew oneself), provided there is "absolute precision in the proportions" and "great simplicity" of form.

(Incidentally, Dior rebukes the reporter's suggestion that American secretaries are more well-dressed than French working girls, and says that American women are wasteful in their spending and make poor purchasing decisions! Well!)

Hubert de Givenchy's Advice for Dressing Well at Any Age

(As recounted in Elle, 13 September 1954. I'm severely summarizing below: definitely read the full article if you know French!)

Couturiers design for the woman of 30, yet each age has its charms: embrace them, it is a folly to dress older or younger than you are! Youth is for endulging in various silly frivolities, but young girls are also sloppier about their appearance. With age comes self-assured, natural elegance, but the older one is the simpler ones clothes must be, and impeccable grooming becomes a necessity.

How To Maintain a Youthful Appearance Past 35

Any woman can make herself look 5 years younger by dressing unpretentiously and with taste. Hubert suggests three basic emsembles:

  1. A very simple suit, with a simple blouse—distinguished by the quality and colour of its fabric—and very little jewelry, i.e. earrings and a nice bracelet or pearl necklace. Frilly blouses and jabots have a grandmotherly air, as do brooches and lapel pins.
  2. A wool dress, worn under a straight coat of simple cut: this can be worn anywhere, and looks good on anyone. Your dress should not be too narrow (unless you are quite skinny), but rather have a flared or pleated skirt. Also avoid Peter Pan collars and v-necks, they are too harsh-looking.
  3. A black dress, ideally with a boat neck, and with the same silhouette caveats listed above. In hot weather, a charming white dress may be worn instead.

For the evening, again avoid overly narrow gowns. The ideal hem length is 30 cm from the ground. You can go somewhat shorter if you have genuinely beautiful legs, but a little too long is always better than too short.

For colours, try: grey with yellow or lilac accessories, or a grey suit with a silk scarf in lilac, pink, jonquil, or light apricot; white with brown, provided the brown is warm and luminous; dark blue, which beautifies almost every complexion; and for eveningwear, intense reds, "tea rose", or pure white or black with a single vivid colour.

Regarding accessories: the best shoe is a classic pump, no taller than 6 cm. Avoid feathers and veils on hats, as they age you: a simple small hat away from the face will draw attention to the eyes, which remain beautiful regardless of age. Finally, Givenchy likes a very large bag (relative to stature), as it's charming to watch a woman rifle through one in search of her lipstick etc.

Ideal Wardrobes for Women of Various Ages

For Givenchy's imaginary fiancée, in her early 20's:

  • colours: light beige, romantic pink (the colour of Gloire de Dijon roses), watery blue, all white in summer
  • silhouette: dresses which flare out from the hip to the hem, with undulating frothy skirts, often pleated, as these are youthful, fresh and gay
  • daywear: very simple garments, e.g. well-cut skirts with a collection of sweaters
  • eveningwear: froufrou gowns with long full skirts—nothing fitted or draped, as this suppresses the spontaneity of youth—in all black jersey, wool, or silk; or else black bodices with coloured skirts
  • sportswear: tweed suits with wide skirts and jersey blouses, in light colours
  • furs: a small blouse-cut leopard or sealskin jacket, which can be worn day or night, and perhaps a small ermine for the evening
  • shoes: ballerinas for daytime, pumps with moderate heels for evening, in colours matching or contrasting with the colour of the dress or belt

For his nonexistant sister, in her 30's, possessing a somewhat stern sort of chic:

  • daywear: a black or dark grey suit, narrow skirted, extremely well-cut; also a series of narrow skirts with short jackets in lively colours
  • late in the day: couture dresses in black taffeta or jersey, worn with tiny hats, "crew neck" pearl necklaces, and pearl earrings
  • eveningwear: singular gowns fashioned of beautiful fabrics in bright colours, e.g. a somewhat elaborate gown in printed cotton fabric with broderie anglaise and an immense stole of cotton or wool
  • sportswear: same as fiancée
  • outerwear: no furs, but a simple black winter coat of straight cut, worn with long gloves of pastel colour, or in the summer various stoles in colours contrasting with her suits

For his mother, age 55, who always has impeccably neat hair:

  • colours: soft colours, e.g. fawn accessories with a grey or navy dress, silver grey with a blue dress, pale pink or lilac with a grey dress, or light caramel with a black dress
  • makeup: lighter shades of blush and lipstick, as is age-appropriate
  • daywear: a simple well-cut flannel dress, with well-chosen accessoires such as a matching belt, bag, and pumps
  • for an elegant lunch: same as daywear, but with a brooch on her coat, impeccable gloves, and perhaps a string of pearls
  • eveningwear: vibrant colours but simple cuts, e.g. a silk jersey gown in silver or pale gold, with a shawl collar and small sleeves
  • outerwear: a long, straight coat for daytime, with colour depending on the colour of the dress; for the afternoon, a short jacket; in the evening, a soft fur about the shoulders
  • accessories: in the daytime, small hats in black, or matching the colour of her hair, and medium-high pumps; in the evening, a hat-less veil in mauve or navy blue, and high heels